February 14, 2010 Food Recipe Redux: Chocolate Caramels, 1881 By AMANDA HESSER A few weeks ago, I gave Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski, a husband-and-wife team of San Francisco chefs, a 19th-century recipe for simple chocolate caramels made with molasses and vanilla and asked them to use it as inspiration for an entirely new dish. The beauty of this free-form recipe assignment, which I give to a chef each month, is that I never know what he or she will come up with. My rule is that the chefs can improvise with flavors and techniques as much as they want, as long as they can later explain how they got from A to B. Brioza and Krasinski were the chef and pastry chef, respectively, at Rubicon until it closed in 2008. While they work on their next restaurant venture, they have more time than usual on their hands — or, at least, more access to daylight and creative thinking. Two days after sending them the candy recipe, I received one back for Black-Sugar-Glazed Medjool Dates W...
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